A Pot of Curry: A Culinary Memorial for My Brother

May your hopia always be flaky and your curry properly spiced in the hereafter, little brother T_T

Of all the things that could happen out of left field, a family tragedy was the one thing none of us counted on. 

On 14th June, my younger brother Rev Fr John Francis Frederick K Manlapig passed on from this life into the next, He was, according to eyewitnesses, celebrating Mass; after consecrating the wine into the Blood of Christ, Jeff knelt down, closed his eyes, and simply slumped to the floor. It was, according to the last doctor who looked him over, as if God simply clicked off a switch: he died painlessly, swiftly, and with a faint smile on his face.

Up until our sister was born in 1990, it was just me and Jeff for the better part of eleven years. Much of that time, he was an extremely picky eater. Just hotdogs, ham, bacon, and KFC - mind you, he only went for the skin. Oh, and the original Rowntree KitKat bars - a favourite he adored even as he grew older.

But a trip to Malaysia with our maternal grandfather, Lolo Papa, seemed to have changed my brother's tastebuds for good. Derhani, Lolo Papa's driver in Kuala Lumpur, had been on errands for the old gentleman all day; as a result, he forgot to order Jeff's KFC dinner. In a tizzy, our grandfather and mother sought a reasonable alternative - but the only one available was the spicy ayam rendang served downstairs at the lobby cafe of the Merlin Hotel where they were staying!

Lolo was of the opinion that a picky kid like Jeff would most likely turn his nose up or gag at the notion of replacing his usual fried chicken [skin] with a local delicacy. The old gentleman was wrong - very wrong, as a matter of fact - as Jeff savoured that spicy curried chicken right down to the last bite, skin and flesh! 

As the years passed, ayam rendang gave way to chicken curry cooked at home, then the various curries and sambals he and our dad enjoyed whenever we travelled to Singapore or during his own trips there and to Malaysia. Jeff also developed a taste for Japanese curry, especially when made with braised beef tongue and served over rice.

For this reason, I ended up learning how to cook different sorts of curry whenever my brother came to visit. Seeing how I'm all thumbs at grinding and making my own spice blends, I've opted to play with different combinations of curry powder, curry paste (both Pan-Malayan and Thai), and Japanese curry roux cubes. The results have always been very satisfying.

About a week after we cremated our brother and just before our sister flew back to Singapore, I made a big pot of his favourite chicken curry. Before this, the day after his cremation, I told my mother and sister that I probably would never make another curry. To which, my sister said: "You've got to be kidding! He and Dad aren't the only ones who love curry in this household!" Of course, she's right.

This is a curry that is meant to have a rich gravy, making it perfect over rice - and it's also great for feeding a crowd. Be sure to serve it with Filipino achara [pickled papaya] or other sorts of Asian pickles. When you do, please think of my brother and his big love for the dish.

Midge's Family-style Chicken Curry

• 1/2 kilo chicken drumsticks and thighs
• 2 potatoes, peeled and quartered
• 1 large carrot, peeled and sliced thickly
• 1 medium-sized onion, peeled and quartered
• 6 shiitake mushrooms, washed and quartered
• 200mL coconut milk
• 200mL dairy milk
• 100mL water
• 1 packet Thai-style yellow or Singapore-style curry paste
• Salt, pepper, and curry powder for seasoning
• Oil for frying and sauteeing

In a large bowl, place the chicken parts and season well with salt, pepper, and curry powder. Allow to marinate for up to two hours.

Heat approximately two cups of oil in a large wok over medium heat. Fry the chunked potato and sliced carrot till crisped at the edges. Fry the chicken afterwards until browned all over. Set chicken and vegetables aside, then drain off the oil, leaving around two tablespoons.

Saute the quartered onion until softened. Add the mushrooms and cook for about a minute. Add the contents of the curry paste packet; stir-fry until very fragrant, then add the chicken and vegetables. Toss carefully until the ingredients have all been coated with the curry paste.

Pour in all the liquids and stir until the solid chunks of paste have more or less dissolved. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat. Cover and simmer for 20 minutes.

Serve immediately with rice and Asian pickles. Makes enough for six, plus some leftovers.

Dear Jeff: I pray that your curries are all beautifully spiced in the hereafter. Give Daddy a hug for us; we miss you both.